Now this brings me on nicely to how I do my weathering. Colonel Winterborne over his blog has done a fantastic tutorial on how he does his weathering, and I thought I would offer up how I do mine. I have also been asked in the past how I do it.
It's no secret how I do it all I do is follow some instruction's and a little trial and error. Yep folk's that's right I follow instruction's, and anybody can if you own a copy of Forge World Imperial Armour Model Masterclass.
In the book there are many reference's to the chipped paint work and how to do it, but I picked one I felt that would suit my colour scheme due to the nature of the colour I use. The part I used comes from page 35 in the text box labelled PAINT CHIPS and it is process 2 & 3, and I quote:
To represent paint chipping through to the base metal of the tank, Chardon Granite was then sponged onto the entire tank. The sponging was concentrated around moving parts such as hatches which would naturally show wear and tear.
In process 1 it talks about how it uses a lighter colour to represent the paint flaking and being chipped. So what I did is use the second stage as mentioned above as the paint flaking for my upper weathering effect, and then the same process using Boltgun Metal for the deep chip work. The process is not easy as I would say it is almost like dry brushing, the trick being is to get most of the paint off the sponge. The sponge I use is the ones you get in the old GW blister pack's as it is nice and thin and easy to control plus it does not mind being washed out after. What I will say is when you do it dab don't scrape otherwise it doe's not look natural.
For the dust and dried mud I use a different method tan Forge World, this is due to the fact I do not own an air brush. But I do use roughly the same technique, this being:
1) The area's were mud and dust would naturally collect are given a wash with a clean thinner. Now any type of thinner can be used including acrylic paint thinner (which I use), water, or white spirits. I do this with an old brush.
2) Earth coloured weathering powders are sprinkled randomly into the still wet thinners. I use the African pigments from MiG for my army but they do a variety. I also apply the powders with a brush.
3) I then apply more thinner over the powder to turn it into paint which allows the different pigments to mix.
4) Then leave the model until the thinner has evaporated just leaving the weathering powders which has taken on the look of dried mud and dust.
5) To give it the look of a dry and dusty environment, the dried weathering powders are lightly brushed off with a clean and dry brush.
6) To seal it all in place so that it does not brush off when you hold and put your model's away I give it a spray with purity seal. I do this at the end along with this effect as I then know my model is finished.
The picture you see are of my Command Chimera that I did some time ago but it gives you the idea of how it can look. Also this Chimera had after these photo's had the weathering extended under the front part as this would also gather mud and dust. You can also see all over the body work the chipped effect just like the Sentinel.
There you have it guy's I hope this helps and inspire you to try a different technique. I will definitely try Colonel Winterborne method just to see what it looks like on my model's.